i’m gonna infect you with covid stay away

deleted by creator

there’s writefreely, a service which is a part of fediverse which might be what you’re loking for

i think there is, but i don’t want to spread associated cognitohazard

dan olson/folding ideas

otoh E contains active warzone and D two of them or more, depending on how you count

not an immunologist; i don’t want to undersell this to you: immunology is fantastically complex subject with many redundancies, feedback loops, and frustrating number of moving parts, many of which are still unknown in sufficient detail. that said, if you want any chance for it to go: first you’d have to figure out what exactly mealses virus does, then you’d have to find a disease that can be cured or treated by obliterating whatever mealses virus is obliterating, and then if there’s any match (big if) it’ll probably still won’t work just with wild type virus and require significant modifications. and even then, that effect as is known in mealses today is not very reliable and lasts only months to years. and even then, there might be other approaches that are safer or more reliable or both

maybe in the course of figuring the first one there will show up an option to modify mealses virus in some significant way that might allow it to target something else, and maybe target other kind of disease, because in no way it’d be a blanket cure for all immune diseases ever. maybe someone made an observational study already that tracked how prevalence of some immune diseases changes after mealses infection, but many of these are rare diseases and it’d be massively hard endeavor

it wasn’t a problem before they started doing this

because it’s cheap, easy, compact, well understood, and makes numbers look good. number in question is ratio of energy used by entire facility to energy used by silicon only (i forgor how it’s called). alternative is dissipating heat from radiators, but this makes this number like 3. evaporative cooling makes this number closer to 1.2

in many flats even recently built you don’t get three-phase power, just single phase, but building divides single three-phase supply into three groups of single phase circuits like you say (do you really need 20kW in residential flat? one that doesn’t use EV charger, built in 90s-10s?) i guess it depends on country also. separate houses tend to get three phase connection where i live

floating neutral will also be a problem in american-type two-phase installation, might be even worse (more frequent) on account of large number of lightly maintained transformers used (why on gods green earth there’s few-kV medium voltage line going down every street, americans make it make sense)

Today many of switching mode power supplies accept anywhere between 100-250V

bases of pins are insulated, like in type C/E/F

you don’t have to have three phase circuit to be affected by floating neutral in three-phase substation upstream. in some places in us there are 208v interphase three-phase circuits, which give 120v phase to neutral, which is distributed as a pair of wires as single-phase circuit. this is also normal way to deliver single-phase power in europe, as it’s most efficient use of conductor. (from 400v three-phase circuits) in case more power is needed than single-phase circuit can deliver, three-phase circuit is installed

if there’s switch on device, it’s 2p1t meaning both phase and neutral are switched. if it’s permanent, non-pluggable circuit, like lightning, it’s okay if only phase is switched (neutral is connected permanently)

it’s a bad practice to design appliance in such a way to assume that neutral will have low voltage, because in case of neutral failure in three-phase circuit you can get full voltage there, and there can be a couple of volts difference (sometimes more) between neutral and ground even in normal circumstances

it’s better to cut off both live and neutral at the same time anyway, especially if there’s no standard which is which. also, as device designer you don’t know if it’ll be used on a circuit that has neutral and phase where you think it’ll go or not. (ie british appliance used on unpolarized circuit, like type F. adapters exist)

Type E/F carries 16A/230V, and nowadays there are shutters included which only allow two pins to be inserted at once, not one but not the other. There’s no standard as of which pin should be L1 and neutral anyway, nor it should matter, and fuses in british plugs are to accommodate ring circuits, which were introduced as a result of copper shortages (ie decades of tech debt)

Or you could just use thicker wires like everyone else, or drop the use of ring mains, which is the actual reason why fuses in plugs were introduced. The reason why this was done was post-WW2 copper shortage. In other countries you’ll see more likely star type circuit

I think that type A plug would be greatly improved in terms of safety and mechanically if it was put in a grounded metal shroud, in style of DIN connector https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_connector it still would be compact, smaller than type F

UK uses type G. Type E/F plug has both contact for grounding pin like in type E and two sliding ground contacts on side like in type F. Sockets are either E or F, and i’ve mostly seen E

no, because it’ll just trip fuse, and stoves are wired directly anyway