How do you plan to get audio in? Bluetooth? Wired audio input?

In your first post you were calling it a head unit, which would replace everything. Given the picture, you have a more fully integrated android auto compatible system rather than a traditional head unit, so I understand why the other commenter pointed to that - its similar to what I would have suggested, which would be to get a din cover appropriately sized, then cut out for a screen.

So the question becomes how do you want to hear and/or see? That would decide placement requirements. For example, I have a nice spot in the passenger seat I could easily hide it behind a panel under the dash, but the audio input I’d have to bring over to the armrest. So I’d run a cable under the carpet to the aux input, bring it up the side of the armrest and plug it in.

FWIW, your phone may work nicely by rebooting into recovery and wiping the cache partition. That resolved things for my wife and her car, no issues or trouble since.

Mixed.

Some stopped cheering. Others are getting louder.

Sorry short hand for tiny/mini/micro. Lenovo tiny, dell micro, and HP mini, some generic used, some I grab from work after their desktop life is done.

Great little workhorses

My NAS just stores, its my stack of tmm’s that do all the heavy lifting.

Though I use a front end for everything, like jellyfin, audiobookshelf, kavita, etc.

My solution was HDMI in as others suggested. Currently a picture slideshow screensaver for Kodi, previously a rooted firestick.

But also make sure its current, and hopefully well documented.

For that, I’d highly recommend a power conditioner with outlet controls (and preferably sequencing).

Most are pretty expensive, but you can get something like a surgex squid or a gude expert power control for a few hundred here and there, which will give you great data on power usage as well. You can also grab an older model with serial and/or relay controls, and use a pi or whatever is handy to trigger it. Actually have a setup like that in a few racks for clients (mostly orange pis and a couple of Asus tinker boards).

Hope your trip goes well!

You realize I’m not the same person, right? So maybe change the attitude a bit.

120Hz wasn’t in your original question. For that you’d need to be in direct view LED territory, which is going to be in the $150k+ range, like an FE012I3 (at least with Sharp/NEC).

Sony has a line of Bravia post production OLEDs, the FWD-##A95Ls ( the number is the sizing) which is going to be a phenomenal production quality display. $7k-$10k.

LG and Samsung are all WebOS and Tizen respectively, but the versions are different than the consumer version. So its “smart”, but not in the same way as consumer editions - sampling content and other such things would be a legal nightmare for them. So if you want “smart” but not “consumer smart” you can go that route, but expect about twice the price.

Edit: I suppose I can toss Planar into the mix here, different business purpose and youre not buying them at best buy. They are more of a 24x7 operation design. I don’t think 120hz is on the sale list yet though, those will be part of the UltraRes series.

That wasn’t the question, but sure.

Commercial series displays. Most of those now have the same (well, same base at least) OS on them though.

I’d say Sharp/NEC would be the only “dumb” professional series displays, at least of the major manufacturers.

You’ll be at around $1500-$3000 for a nominal 80" (they make a 75" and an 86").

Roku TVs did that

https://www.pcmag.com/news/roku-bricking-tvs-unless-users-accept-dispute-resolution-terms